Hispi Cabbage with Allium Glaze
Prep. Time:
1 hour (plus 3–5 days fermenting)
Baking Time:
1 hour 30 minutes
Total Time:
Approximately 3 hours active (plan ahead)
Serves:
4 servings
Paul created this dish for Great British Menu Season 21. Head chef at Michelin-starred and Green Star Forest Side in Grasmere, Paul designed this plant-based starter for the North West heat, taking a humble hispi cabbage from his own kitchen garden and transforming it through technique and layered umami. The cabbage is pressure-cooked with seaweed stock, formed into a ballotine, charred on the barbecue, and glazed with a reduced onion stock. It sits on salsa verde with bruised rye grains, accompanied by fermented onion velouté and pickled walnut ketchup. Lisa Goodwin-Allen scored it 8/10, praising the perfectly cooked cabbage and balanced pickled walnut ketchup, but wanted more onion glaze and advised against aerating the sauce. Phil Wang called it 'delicious' with 'lovely char,' while Tom Kerridge wanted more savoury depth and crispiness, and Lorna McNee found it 'a bit too sweet.' This recipe addresses all feedback: increased allium glaze, non-aerated velouté, miso for umami depth, and crispy shallots for texture.
Chef’s Notes: Addressing the Judges’ Feedback
The Sweetness Debate
The finals judging was notably divided. Lorna and Tom found the dish too sweet, while Phil and Debbie disagreed. The sweetness comes from the slow-cooked allium glaze (onions are naturally high in sugar when caramelised) and the pressure-cooked cabbage itself. This recipe addresses the concern through two
additions: white miso in the seaweed stock provides savoury depth (umami counters perceived sweetness), and a splash of sherry vinegar in the pickled walnut ketchup sharpens the overall balance. The salsa verde’s brightness and the fermented onion’s tanginess already provide counterpoints - the key is using all the
sauces generously enough that the plate reads as complex rather than one-note.
Texture and Crispiness
Tom specifically wanted more crispiness and textural variety. Paul’s original dish relied on the charred exterior and the rye grains for texture, but in a multi-component plate with soft cabbage, smooth velouté, and sauce dots, the overall impression could lean soft. This recipe adds crispy fried shallots as a garnish -
consistent with Paul’s allium theme - and encourages a harder char on the cabbage to create a more pronounced crisp exterior contrasting with the tender interior.
Lisa’s Three Key Notes
Lisa’s veteran judge score of 8/10 came with three specific pieces of feedback that Paul addressed for the finals: (1) more onion glaze - this recipe specifies multiple coats applied generously; (2) do not aerate the fermented onion sauce - serve as a smooth velouté with body; (3) the dish was a little small - this home
version serves generous portions with thick-cut ballotine rounds and abundant accompaniments.
The Provenance Story
Paul emphasised that this dish was “deeply rooted in Cumbria.” The hispi cabbage comes from Forest Side’s own garden, the seaweed is hand-foraged from the Cumbrian coast, the ancient rye grains are from a local baker who grows, harvests, and mills their own grain, and the pickled walnuts were foraged from woodland around the restaurant. At home, you won’t have these same sources, but the principle holds: seek out local, seasonal vegetables, good-quality dried seaweed from a reputable supplier, and whole rye grains from a mill or health food shop. The magic is in the technique, not the postcode.
Troubleshooting Guide
• Cabbage is mushy after pressure cooking: Overcooked. Reduce time to 6–7 minutes for smaller cabbages. The cabbage should be tender but retain structure — it needs to hold together for ballotine-forming.
• Ballotine falls apart when slicing: It wasn’t compressed or frozen enough. Roll tightly, freeze for at least 1 hour (Paul froze his), and slice while still partially frozen.
• Allium glaze is too thin: Keep reducing. It should coat the back of a spoon thickly. Start with more onion stock than you think you need — the volume reduces dramatically.
• Fermented onions smell unpleasant: Some funk is normal during lacto-fermentation, but truly off smells (mouldy, rotten) indicate contamination. Ensure the onions stayed submerged in brine throughout. Discard and start again if in doubt.
• Pickled walnut ketchup is overwhelmingly strong: Lisa had this same concern in the kitchen. Reduce the amount per plate — small, precise dots are all you need. The port and horseradish are intense by design; the balance comes from restraint in plating, not in the recipe itself.
• Dish reads as too sweet overall: Add more sherry vinegar or lemon juice to the salsa verde. Increase the miso in the seaweed stock. Ensure the fermented onions are properly tangy (longer fermentation = more acidity). And don’t under-char the cabbage — deep charring adds bitterness that counters sweetness.
Storage & Make-Ahead Tips
• Fermented onions: Must be started 3–5 days ahead. Once fermented, keep refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.
• Rye berries: Cook up to 3 days ahead. Store in the fridge, dress just before serving.
• Allium glaze: Make up to 3 days ahead. Refrigerate and gently rewarm - it thickens as it cools.
• Pickled walnut ketchup: Make up to 1 week ahead. Refrigerate in a squeeze bottle.
• Salsa verde: Best made within a few hours of serving for vibrancy. Can hold overnight if pressed.
• Cabbage ballotine: Form and freeze up to 2 days ahead. Slice from frozen as needed.
• Fermented onion velouté: Make up to 2 days ahead. Reheat gently, adding a splash of stock if too thick.
Variations & Substitutions
• Simplified home version: Skip the pressure cooker. Halve the cabbage, brush with miso-seaweed butter, and roast at 425°F (220°C) for 25–30 minutes until charred and tender. Less refined but captures the same flavour profile.
• Quick-fermented onion: If you don’t have 3–5 days, slice onions and soak in rice vinegar with a pinch of sugar and salt for 2 hours. Not a true ferment but provides the acidity.
• Different brassicas: January King cabbage, savoy cabbage, or pointed spring cabbage can substitute for hispi. Adjust pressure cooking time accordingly.
• Grain swap: Freekeh, spelt berries, or farro can replace rye for a different nutty character.
• Not fully vegan? A small knob of butter brushed on the cabbage before charring adds richness. Swap oat cream for double cream in the velouté.
• Paul’s Indian twist: Given his love of curry, try adding garam masala and turmeric to the allium glaze, black mustard seeds to the rye grains, and fresh coriander to the salsa verde for a cross-cultural version.
Ingredients
Instructions
FERMENT THE ONIONS (3–5 DAYS AHEAD)
Thinly slice the 3 large onions for the velouté. Weigh them and calculate 2% of that weight in fine sea salt (approximately 14 g for 675 g onions). Toss the onions thoroughly with the salt, massaging until they begin to release liquid. Pack tightly into a clean glass jar, pressing down to submerge the onions in their own brine. Cover loosely and leave at room temperature for 3–5 days, pressing the onions down daily. They should develop a pleasantly tangy, complex flavour. Once fermented, refrigerate until needed.
COOK THE RYE BERRIES
Rinse the rye berries and soak overnight in cold water. Drain, place in a saucepan with plenty of fresh water, and simmer for 45–60 minutes until tender but still retaining a chewy bite. Drain and cool. To bruise them, spread the cooked grains on a baking sheet and press gently with the base of a heavy pan — this cracks them open slightly, exposing a starchier interior that absorbs dressings. Season lightly with salt and a drizzle of oil.
MAKE THE SEAWEED STOCK AND PRESSURE-COOK THE CABBAGE
Soak the kombu and wakame (if using) in 3 cups water for 30 minutes. Place in a saucepan, bring to a gentle simmer (do not boil vigorously or the kombu turns bitter), and cook for 15 minutes. Remove the seaweed. Stir in the miso paste and soy sauce. Trim the base of the hispi cabbage but keep it whole. Place it in the pressure cooker, pour over the warm seaweed stock, lock the lid, and cook at high pressure for 8–10 minutes. Natural release for 5 minutes, then quick release. The cabbage should be tender throughout but still holding its structure. Remove carefully and allow to cool enough to handle. Reserve the cooking liquid.
FORM THE BALLOTINE
When the cabbage is cool enough to handle, carefully separate the leaves. Lay out a large sheet of cling film. Arrange the leaves overlapping in a rectangle, layering them to create a solid sheet. Season lightly. Roll tightly into a cylinder (ballotine), twisting the cling film at both ends to compress firmly. Plunge the wrapped ballotine into an ice bath for 15 minutes, then freeze for at least 1 hour or up to overnight — this creates a tighter, denser texture that slices cleanly. When ready to serve, slice into 1.5-inch (4 cm) thick rounds while still partially frozen. Remove cling film from each slice.
MAKE THE ALLIUM GLAZE
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 20–25 minutes until deeply caramelised and golden brown. Add the water or stock (or reserved seaweed cooking liquid for extra depth) and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing the onions to extract maximum flavour. Return the liquid to the pan, add the soy sauce and mirin, and reduce over medium-high heat until you have a thick, sticky, glossy glaze — about ½ cup (120 ml) total. It should coat the back of a spoon. Lisa wanted more of this element, so be generous when applying.
MAKE THE FERMENTED ONION VELOUTÉ
Heat a tablespoon of oil in a saucepan. Add the fermented onions with a splash of their brine and cook gently for 5 minutes to soften. Add the vegetable stock and simmer for 10 minutes. Blend until completely smooth, then pass through a fine sieve for silk-like texture. Stir in the cashew butter for body. Season with salt if needed. Do not aerate or foam this sauce — Lisa specifically said she would not aerate it. Serve as a smooth, pourable velouté with body and presence.
MAKE THE PICKLED WALNUT KETCHUP
Roughly chop the pickled walnuts and place in a small saucepan with the port. Simmer until the port is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a blender with the horseradish, nutmeg, salt, and sherry vinegar. Blend until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve for a completely smooth ketchup. It should be intense, earthy, and savoury with a spicy kick from the horseradish. Use sparingly in dots. Transfer to a squeeze bottle for precise plating.
MAKE THE SALSA VERDE
Finely chop the parsley, mint, chives, capers, and cornichons. Combine in a bowl with the Dijon mustard, olive oil, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. The salsa verde should be vibrant, herbaceous, and loose enough to spread.
CHAR THE CABBAGE AND ASSEMBLE
Heat a barbecue, grill pan, or cast-iron skillet to very high heat. Brush the cabbage rounds with oil and char cut-side down for 2–3 minutes until deeply caramelised. Flip and char the other side. Immediately brush generously with the warm allium glaze — two or three coats, allowing each to set slightly before applying the next. To plate: spoon the salsa verde onto the centre of each plate and spread into a rough circle. Scatter the bruised rye grains over and around the salsa verde. Place the glazed cabbage round on top. Pour a pool of the fermented onion velouté alongside (not over) the cabbage. Dot the pickled walnut ketchup in precise dots around the plate. Scatter crispy shallots over the cabbage. Finish with micro herbs or garden cress.
