Za'atar and Fig Biscuits
Prep. Time:
20 minutes
Baking Time:
20 minutes
Total Time:
40 minutes
Serves:
10-12 biscuits
Iain Watters brought his adventurous world-travel-inspired palate to these biscuits, combining Middle Eastern za'atar, Mediterranean dried figs, and hearty British oatmeal. Paul Hollywood found the original version too pungent with powerful flavors that went overboard. This improved recipe addresses the critique through strategic layering: a modest amount of za'atar in the dough with an aromatic za'atar honey butter brushed on top creates complexity without heaviness. The figs' jammy sweetness and honey provide crucial counterpoint to za'atar's herbal punch, while oats ground the exotic elements with their mild, toasty flavor.
Chef's Notes
On Za'atar Balance
The key improvement here is restraint. Za'atar contains powerful flavors—sumac's acidity, oregano's intensity, sesame's nuttiness—that can easily dominate. By using a measured 1½ tablespoons in the dough and adding the rest as a finishing butter, you get complexity without the "pungent" quality Paul criticized. The figs and honey provide essential sweetness to round out the savory-herbal notes.
On Achieving "Short" Texture
British biscuits should have what's called a "short" texture—tender, crumbly, and rich rather than chewy. The combination of cold butter, minimal handling, and the fat from olive oil ensures this delicate crumb. If your kitchen is warm, chill the flour mixture for 15 minutes before adding the butter.
On Za'atar Quality
Za'atar blends vary dramatically. Middle Eastern markets often carry superior versions with more herbs and less filler. Look for blends where you can see the green herbs, red sumac, and sesame seeds distinctly. If your za'atar tastes particularly sharp or salty, reduce the amount by a teaspoon and taste before adding the full amount to the topping butter.
Troubleshooting
Biscuits spread rather than rise: Butter was too warm. Freeze it solid before grating and work quickly. If your kitchen is warm, chill the assembled biscuits for 10-15 minutes before baking.
Za'atar still tastes too strong: Some commercial blends are more potent than others. Reduce to 1 tablespoon in the dough and taste the topping butter before applying—you can always use plain butter and just sprinkle za'atar lightly on top.
Figs sinking to the bottom: Make sure figs are chopped small and tossed thoroughly with the flour mixture before adding liquid. The flour coating helps suspend them.
Biscuits are dense, not flaky: Overmixing develops gluten. Mix only until the dough just comes together, and don't skip the folding steps—these create the essential layers.
Edges are pale but top is browning: Move the rack lower. The top browning from the za'atar butter can fool you while the bottom stays underdone.
Storage & Make-Ahead Tips
Same day: Best served warm from the oven or within 4 hours at room temperature.
Make ahead (dough): Cut biscuits can be frozen on a parchment-lined sheet, then transferred to a freezer bag. Bake from frozen, adding 3-5 minutes to the baking time.
Make ahead (baked): Cool completely, wrap tightly, and freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 8-10 minutes.
Refresh day-old biscuits: Wrap in foil and warm in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 5-7 minutes. Brush with a little extra za'atar butter if desired.
Serving Suggestions
With labneh or thick Greek yogurt and a drizzle of honey
Alongside a mezze spread with hummus, olives, and fresh vegetables
Split and filled with scrambled eggs and crumbled feta for brunch
As an accompaniment to lamb dishes or Middle Eastern-spiced soups
Variations
Savory-Forward Version: Omit the sugar and honey from the biscuit dough. Add ¼ cup crumbled feta cheese with the figs.
Apricot Variation: Replace figs with chopped dried apricots for a brighter, tangier sweetness that also complements za'atar beautifully.
Seeded Top: After brushing with za'atar butter, sprinkle with additional sesame seeds for extra crunch and visual appeal.
Ingredients
Instructions
PREPARE THE DRY INGREDIENTS
1. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, oats, 1½ tablespoons za'atar, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and fine sea salt until well combined.
CUT IN THE BUTTER
3. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the frozen butter directly into the flour mixture. Toss gently with your fingers to coat the butter shreds in flour, working quickly to keep the butter cold. The mixture should resemble coarse, irregular crumbs with visible butter pieces.
ADD THE WET INGREDIENTS
4. Scatter the chopped figs over the flour mixture and toss to distribute evenly.
5. In a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, honey, and olive oil.
6. Pour the wet ingredients over the flour mixture. Using a fork, then your hands, gently mix until a shaggy dough just comes together. Do not overmix—some dry spots are fine.
LAMINATE FOR FLAKY LAYERS
7. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Pat into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick. Fold the dough in thirds like a letter. Rotate 90 degrees and pat out again. Repeat folding two more times.
8. Pat the final dough to approximately 1-inch thickness. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut out biscuits pressing straight down without twisting—twisting seals the edges and prevents rise. Gather scraps gently, pat out, and cut remaining biscuits.
PREPARE THE ZA'ATAR HONEY BUTTER
9. In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter, 1 tablespoon za'atar, and 1 teaspoon honey.
BAKE
10. Arrange biscuits on the prepared sheet, spacing 2 inches apart. For extra-tall biscuits, refrigerate on the sheet for 10 minutes before baking.
11. Brush tops generously with half of the za'atar honey butter.
12. Bake for 18-22 minutes until golden brown on top and cooked through, with visible flaky layers on the sides.
13. Remove from oven and immediately brush with remaining za'atar honey butter. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
14. Cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before serving warm.
