Blistering Tomatoes in a Dry Pan

Blistered tomatoes are about heat and patience, not stirring. Get a heavy pan — cast iron is ideal — properly hot before the tomatoes go in with a little oil, then leave them undisturbed for a full minute so the skins catch and begin to char before you toss. Crowding the pan drops the temperature and the tomatoes stew instead of blistering, so cook in a single layer and give them room. They are ready when the skins split, blacken in patches and the flesh just starts to collapse, releasing a little sweet-sour juice. A finishing pinch of flaky salt while they are still hot draws that juice out further.