Lamb Börek with Apricot Jam and Pickled Tomatillos

STEP 1: PICKLE THE TOMATILLOS

Combine the white wine vinegar, water, sugar, salt and cracked coriander seeds in a small saucepan and bring just to a simmer, stirring until the sugar and salt dissolve. Put the sliced tomatillos (and shallot, if using) in a heatproof jar or bowl and pour the hot brine over them. Cool, then chill at least 2 hours — overnight is better. They should stay crisp and turn brightly tart, the acidic counterpoint that keeps the rich lamb and sweet jam in balance.

STEP 2: MAKE THE APRICOT JAM

Put the dried apricots, water, granulated sugar, lemon juice and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan. Simmer gently, stirring now and then, for 12–18 minutes until the fruit is very soft and the mixture is thick and jammy. Mash with a fork or blend briefly for a smoother set, loosening with a splash of water if it tightens too much. Cool to warm or room temperature — you want it spoonable, not stiff.

STEP 3: COOK THE SPICED LAMB FILLING

Warm the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook until soft and lightly golden, about 6–8 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring, for a minute until fragrant and darkened. Push to one side, add the ground lamb and brown well, breaking it up and letting it catch colour rather than softening in its own moisture. Stir in the cumin, coriander, Aleppo pepper, cinnamon, allspice, sumac, salt and black pepper and cook another 2–3 minutes. Off the heat, fold through the chopped pistachios, parsley and mint (and feta, if using). Taste and adjust — it should be savoury, warmly spiced and just a little sharp from the sumac. Let it cool before filling; a hot filling tears the pastry.

STEP 4: SHAPE THE BÖREK

Lay one sheet of yufka or phyllo on a clean, dry work surface and brush lightly with melted butter (if using phyllo, stack two brushed sheets for strength). Spoon a line of lamb along one edge, leaving a border, fold the sides in and roll into a firm cigar; or coil the filled roll into a spiral for a classic round börek. Repeat to make about 8 rolls (or 4 coils). Brush the tops with the beaten egg, then the remaining butter, and scatter with the nigella or sesame seeds. Keep the pastry under a damp cloth as you work so it doesn't dry out and crack.

STEP 5: BAKE OR PAN-CRISP UNTIL GOLDEN

To bake, cook on a parchment-lined baking sheet at 400°F (200°C) for 20–25 minutes until deep golden and crisp. For a faster, Quickfire-style finish, shallow-fry the rolls in a little oil and butter over medium heat, turning, until crisp and burnished all over, about 4–5 minutes. Either way, you want real crackle outside and a moist, aromatic centre; drain briefly on paper towel if fried.

STEP 6: PLATE THE PAIRING

Set the börek on warm plates. Add a spoonful of the warm apricot jam and a small tangle of the pickled tomatillos alongside. Scatter over the reserved chopped pistachios and a final pinch of sumac. Finish with a small scoop of pistachio gelato — the on-air pairing — or a spoonful of thick, cold yogurt; either way that cool, faintly sweet dairy note ties the salty, sweet and tangy together. Serve straight away, while the pastry is crisp and the gelato cold.