Mama Wang's Stuffed Cabbage

STEP 1: SEAR THE SHORT RIBS

Pat the short ribs dry and season lightly. Heat the neutral oil in the casserole over medium-high heat and brown the ribs hard on all sides, working in batches so the pan is never crowded. Set them aside.

STEP 2: FRY THE AROMATICS

Pour off all but a tablespoon of fat. Add the ginger, spring onion whites and garlic and fry for 1–2 minutes until fragrant but not coloured.

STEP 3: DEGLAZE THE PAN

Add the Shaoxing rice wine and let it bubble hard for a minute, scraping the base of the pan clean.

STEP 4: BUILD THE BRAISE

Return the ribs to the pan. Add the light soy sauce, the dark soy sauce, the rock sugar, star anise, cassia and chilli, then pour in water or stock to just cover. Bring to a bare simmer and skim.

STEP 5: BRAISE LOW AND SLOW

Cover and cook at the gentlest possible simmer for 3 hours, or in a 150°C / 300°F oven, until the meat gives completely to a spoon. Do not let it boil — a rolling braise makes short rib stringy rather than yielding.

STEP 6: REST OVERNIGHT

Cool the ribs in their liquor and refrigerate. The fat sets into a cap that lifts off cleanly the next day, and the meat firms enough to shred without falling to threads.

STEP 7: SEPARATE AND DIVIDE

Lift off the fat cap, reserving a couple of teaspoons for the sauce. Remove the ribs, discard the bones, gristle and hard fat, and shred the meat coarsely. Strain the liquor and divide it: about 120 ml (1/2 cup) for the filling, 240 ml (1 cup) for the sauce, the rest reserved.

STEP 8: REDUCE THE LIQUOR

Simmer the sauce portion and the filling portion separately until each is glossy and coats a spoon. Taste as you go — soy braises concentrate their salt fast.

STEP 9: DRESS THE FILLING

Fold the reduced filling liquor through the shredded meat until it is moist and holds together but is not wet. Season with the white pepper, and salt only if it needs it.

STEP 10: BLANCH THE CABBAGE LEAVES

Core the napa cabbage and separate 12 large outer leaves plus a few spares. Blanch for 60–90 seconds until pliable, refresh in iced water, drain and pat dry. Pare the thick central rib flat with a knife held parallel to the board.

STEP 11: ROLL THE PARCELS

Lay a leaf rib-side down, place a generous spoonful of filling near the base, fold the sides in and roll up firmly. Sit each roll seam-side down. Repeat for 12 rolls.

STEP 12: START THE WILD RICE

Drain the soaked wild rice and simmer it in half the stock for about 45 minutes, until the grains have split and softened. Wild rice will not break down into starch the way white rice does — it stays chewy, and that is the point.

STEP 13: ADD THE WHITE RICE

Stir in the jasmine rice, the remaining stock and the julienned ginger. Simmer uncovered for 40–50 minutes, stirring often and scraping the base, until the white rice has collapsed and the congee is loose and creamy with the wild grains suspended in it.

STEP 14: SEASON THE CONGEE LATE

Salt at the end — congee thickens as it reduces and over-salts easily. Finish with the toasted sesame oil off the heat. Aim for a consistency that spreads slowly on a warm plate rather than mounding, and keep extra hot stock to hand because it will thicken further while you plate.

STEP 15: SWEAT THE SHALLOT

Cook the diced shallot gently in the reserved skimmed braising fat until soft and translucent, without colour.

STEP 16: BLOOM THE PEPPER

Add the cracked peppercorns and cook for 30 seconds. This is what gives the sauce its perfume rather than a raw bite.

STEP 17: COOK THE BLACKCURRANTS

Add the blackcurrants and cook for 3–4 minutes until they burst and release their juice.

STEP 18: BUILD AND BALANCE THE SAUCE

Pour in the reduced braising liquor and simmer for 8–10 minutes. Sieve it for a smooth sauce, or leave some fruit whole for texture. Taste: it should read savoury and sharp, not jammy. Add the rice vinegar if it needs lift, and a very little sugar only if the fruit is punishing. Whisk in the cold butter off the heat for gloss if you like.

STEP 19: HEAT THE ROLLS THROUGH

Steam the rolls for 8–10 minutes to heat through, or warm them covered in a shallow pan with a splash of the reserved liquor.

STEP 20: PLATE THE DISH

Spoon warm congee across the base of a wide, shallow bowl. Set two cabbage rolls on the congee, seam-side down. Spoon the blackcurrant sauce over and around the rolls — enough to be tasted in every bite, not enough to flood the congee. Finish with the spring onion greens, coriander if using, and a final crack of black pepper.