Butcher the deer: Place the saddle bone-side up. Cut along either side of the spine, following the contour of the bone and navigating around the ridge to remove the two loins with minimal waste. Remove the silver sinew from each loin, keeping as much flesh attached as possible.

Start the sauce: Heat a pan over high heat. Add mushrooms (kept fairly large for body) and cook until colored. Add bacon and cook until crisp. Add shallots and soften. Add garlic last to prevent burning.

Deglaze and build: Add white wine and reduce. Add reduced stock, baby onions, and halved cherry tomatoes. Simmer until sauce has body. Season and finish with fresh tarragon.

Cook the venison: Season the loins. Heat oil in a pan over high heat. Sear the venison on all sides. Add butter and rosemary, basting the meat. Cook to medium-rare (internal temperature 54-57°C). Rest for at least 5 minutes before slicing.

Make the gremolata: Pulse together in a blender, tarragon, parsley, lemon zest, and garlic. Add just enough oil to bind without making it wet. Season with salt.

Plate: Slice the rested venison. Spoon chasseur sauce alongside (not over) the meat. Add a spoonful of gremolata.