Set Buckwheat Cream with Apple

STEP 1: TOAST THE BUCKWHEAT

Toast all the buckwheat groats for the cream and jelly together in a dry pan over medium heat, stirring, for 4-6 minutes until deeply nutty and fragrant - this gives the mild, coffee-like note. Set aside; reserve 2 tbsp (20 g) for the jelly centre.

STEP 2: MAKE THE SET BUCKWHEAT CREAM

Warm the milk and cream with the larger quantity of toasted groats and the salt to just below a simmer. Off the heat, cover and infuse 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing gently, then reheat with the caster sugar until dissolved. Squeeze the bloomed gelatine and whisk in off the heat until fully dissolved. Cool to room temperature, pour into cling-lined moulds about two-thirds full, and reserve the rest. Chill 1 hour until just set.

STEP 3: SET THE APPLE JELLY & BUCKWHEAT CENTRE

Warm the apple juice with the caster sugar and lemon juice, whisk in the bloomed gelatine until dissolved, and cool until syrupy but not set. Stir the reserved toasted groats into a little of the jelly and spoon a small amount into the centre of each part-set cream. Top with the remaining buckwheat cream to seal, level, and chill at least 3 hours or overnight until fully set. Pour the rest of the jelly into a shallow tray to set, then dice for garnish.

STEP 4: PREPARE THE APPLE 'SCALES'

Using a mandoline, cut very thin half-moon slices from one apple and toss immediately in lemon juice. Warm the simple syrup, dip the slices briefly to gloss and soften, then drain on paper. Keep covered so they stay pliable for shingling.

STEP 5: WHIP THE APPLE CREAM

Whip the chilled cream with the cooled reduced apple juice and icing sugar to soft, pipeable peaks - stop at a soft ribbon. Chill in a piping bag fitted with a small plain nozzle.

STEP 6: FRY THE APPLE-BRIOCHE CROUTONS

Finely dice the second apple. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the brioche and apple, and toss over medium heat until golden and crisp. Add the caster sugar (and cinnamon, if using) for the final minute to caramelise lightly. Drain on paper and keep crisp.

STEP 7: MAKE THE APPLE-CALVADOS CARAMEL

Combine the caster sugar and water in a heavy pan and cook without stirring to a deep amber caramel - take it a shade darker than usual for a gentle bitterness. Off the heat, carefully add the apple juice (it will splutter), then return to low heat to dissolve any set caramel. Stir in the Calvados, butter and a pinch of salt. Reduce briefly to a pourable, glossy sauce; cool slightly.

STEP 8: BAKE THE MAPLE-LEAF TUILES

Preheat the oven to 340F (170C). Beat the butter and icing sugar until smooth, beat in the egg white, then fold in the flour and maple syrup to a smooth paste. Spread thinly through a maple-leaf stencil onto a silicone mat and bake 6-8 minutes until the edges are golden. Work fast: there is only about a 15-second window while the tuile is pliable enough to drape before it sets and cracks. Make spares.

STEP 9: PLATE

Unmould each set buckwheat cream onto a plate. Shingle the apple slices over the top as overlapping 'scales.' Pipe small peaks of whipped apple cream, scatter the crisp croutons and a few cubes of apple jelly, and spoon the warm apple-Calvados caramel around the base. Finish with a single maple-leaf tuile set at an angle. Serve at once.