MARINATE THE CHICKEN (AT LEAST 2 HOURS OR OVERNIGHT)
If using bone-in thighs with skin, carefully remove the skin from 4 of the thighs and reserve for the crispy skin garnish. Score the chicken thighs with a few shallow cuts. In a large bowl, combine the buttermilk and hot sauce (if using). Add the chicken thighs, turning to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or ideally overnight. The buttermilk tenderises the meat and helps the coating adhere.


RENDER CHICKEN FAT AND PREPARE CRISPY SKIN
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Lay the reserved chicken skins flat on a parchment-lined baking sheet, season lightly with salt and smoked paprika, and place another sheet of parchment on top, weighted with a second baking sheet. Bake for 20–25 minutes until deeply golden and crackling-crisp. Transfer the rendered fat to a small bowl for the mash. Drain the crispy skins on paper towels and set aside.


START THE MALT GRAVY
In a medium saucepan, heat a splash of oil over medium-high heat. Add any chicken bones and trimmings and roast until deeply browned, about 8–10 minutes. Add the sliced shallots and crushed garlic and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Pour in the malt ale and bring to a vigorous boil, scraping up any fond. Reduce the ale by at least two-thirds — this concentrates the malty sweetness and cooks off the bitterness. Add the chicken stock, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer gently for 30–40 minutes until reduced by about half and intensely flavoured. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on the solids. Return to a clean saucepan and keep warm.


COOK THE POTATOES
Place the quartered potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold salted water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until completely tender when pierced with a knife, about 18–20 minutes. Drain thoroughly and allow to steam dry in the colander for 2–3 minutes.


PREPARE THE SPICED FLOUR
In a large shallow dish or rimmed baking sheet, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, cumin, espelette pepper, ground ginger, cinnamon, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, salt, and black pepper.


BREAD AND FRY THE CHICKEN
Fill a large heavy-bottomed pot with oil to a depth of about 3 inches (7 cm). Heat to 325°F (160°C). Remove chicken pieces from buttermilk, allowing excess to drip off. Dredge thoroughly in the spiced flour, pressing firmly to create a thick, craggy coating. For an extra-crunchy finish, drizzle a tablespoon of buttermilk into the remaining flour and toss with a fork to create small clumps — these become the crunchiest bits. Re-dredge the chicken through these clumps. Working in batches, fry for 12–15 minutes, turning occasionally, until the internal temperature reaches 175°F (80°C) and the coating is deep golden brown and shatteringly crunchy. Rest on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, season immediately with a pinch of flaky salt.


MAKE THE CHICKEN FAT MASH
Pass the hot drained potatoes through a ricer back into the warm saucepan (or mash thoroughly with a masher for a more rustic texture). Over low heat, beat in the rendered chicken fat, butter, and warmed milk. Season with salt and white pepper. The chicken fat should be clearly perceptible. Keep covered and warm.


GLAZE THE CARROTS
If using larger heritage carrots, halve them lengthwise and cut into 3-inch (7 cm) pieces. In a skillet or saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the carrots, maple syrup, thyme, a pinch of salt, and the water or stock. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook until the carrots are just tender, about 10–12 minutes. Remove the lid and increase heat to reduce the liquid to a glossy glaze, turning the carrots to coat. They should be tender but with a slight bite.


SEAR THE CHICKEN HEARTS
Pat the trimmed, halved chicken hearts completely dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and pepper. Heat a cast-iron or heavy skillet over high heat until smoking. Add the oil and butter. Once the butter foams, add the hearts in a single layer — do not move them for 90 seconds to develop a deep sear. Flip and sear the other side for another 60–90 seconds. Add the thyme and crushed garlic, basting with the foaming butter for 30 seconds. The hearts should be bronzed outside and just pink in the very centre. Remove and rest for 1 minute.


MAKE THE SPICED BBQ DIPPING SAUCE
In a small saucepan, combine the ketchup, cider vinegar, brown sugar, smoked paprika, espelette pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and garlic powder. Simmer gently for 5 minutes until slightly thickened and the flavours meld. Adjust seasoning and set aside.


FINISH THE GRAVY
Bring the strained gravy back to a gentle simmer. Whisk in the cold butter for gloss and body. Taste and adjust seasoning — add a splash of malt vinegar if the gravy needs a touch of acidity to cut through the richness. The consistency should coat the back of a spoon. Keep warm.


PLATE AND SERVE
Place a generous mound of chicken fat mash slightly off-centre on each warm plate. Lean two pieces of fried chicken against the mash. Arrange the maple glazed carrots alongside. Nestle the seared chicken hearts near the chicken. Shatter the crispy chicken skin into dramatic shards and plant them upright in the mash. Spoon the malt gravy around and beside the plate (not over the crispy chicken — protect that crunch). Serve the spiced BBQ sauce in a small ramekin on the side. Serve immediately.