Tortang Talong with XO Sauce

STEP 1: SALT AND DEGORGE THE EGGPLANT

If using long eggplants, halve or thickly slice them. Salt the cut faces with the fine sea salt and rest 20-30 minutes until beads of moisture surface, then pat thoroughly dry. This is the first line of defence against a soggy interior - you are removing water before the eggplant ever cooks.

STEP 2: CHAR AND PRESS THE EGGPLANT

Char the eggplant directly over a flame, under a hot broiler, or on a grill until the skin blackens and the flesh collapses to tender. Cool slightly, peel away the skin, and lay the flesh in a fine sieve. Press gently with the back of a spoon to release the smoky liquid inside - this pressed-dry flesh is what keeps the finished torta soft rather than wet. Roughly chop.

STEP 3: BUILD THE LAP CHEONG XO (DO NOT BLEND)

Warm the neutral oil in a small heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the lap cheong and render for 2-3 minutes, then add the garlic, shallots and chilli and cook slowly until fragrant and lightly golden. Stir in the soaked dried shrimp and shredded conpoy and continue until everything is crisp at the edges and deeply savoury, 6-8 minutes. Season with the oyster sauce, fish sauce and sugar. Keep it loose and chunky - the visible texture is what makes this XO sauce read as XO. Set aside; it can be served just warm.

STEP 4: COOK THE PORK BELLY

Toss the sliced pork belly with the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar and crushed garlic, and rest 10 minutes. Sear in the neutral oil over medium-high heat until caramelised and crisp at the edges. Slice into bite-size pieces and keep warm.

STEP 5: MAKE THE BANANA-KETCHUP GASTRIQUE

Simmer the banana ketchup, rice vinegar and brown sugar in a small pan for 2-3 minutes until glossy and lightly syrupy. This carries the nod to banana ketchup on its own, rather than folded into the XO, so the sauce keeps its identity. Cool.

STEP 6: FORM AND FRY THE TORTA

Beat the eggs with the fine sea salt and white pepper, then fold the pressed-dry charred eggplant through the egg. Heat the frying oil to a steady 350F (175C) and verify with an instant-read thermometer - too cool and the omelette absorbs oil and turns soggy, too hot and the edge burns before the centre sets. Ladle in portions and shallow-fry until the edges are lacy and crisp and the centre is just set but still creamy. Lift onto a cooling rack set over a tray, never onto paper, which traps moisture and re-softens the crisp edge.

STEP 7: PLATE

Set the torta crisp-edge-up. Spoon the textured lap cheong XO generously over and alongside, add the caramelised pork belly, and place a few small dots of banana-ketchup gastrique around the plate. Scatter spring onion and coriander, finish with flaky sea salt, and serve at once while the edge is still crisp.