Cooking Red Lentils to a Creamy Dal

Red split lentils (masoor dal) are the secret to a dal that turns silky without any cream. Unlike green or brown lentils, they break down completely as they cook, so the aim is to simmer them in plenty of water until they fully collapse into a loose, soupy purée — around 20–25 minutes — skimming off any foam and adding a splash more water whenever they thicken too far. The creaminess is built in two stages: first the collapse, then beating in a knob of butter with the salt at the end for a minute, which works the fat through the lentils for a glossy, velvety finish. Keep the dal loose rather than stodgy; if it stiffens as it sits, loosen it with hot water and beat again just before serving.