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One Fruit Three Ways

If a fruit is the headline of a dish, one form rarely delivers enough of it — especially when that form is pickled or otherwise muted by acid. Build the flavour in layers instead. Fold freeze-dried fruit powder into the dry mix so the colour and taste live inside the crumb; roast a quick compote of the same fruit with a little sugar and lemon to concentrate a deep, jammy note; and keep the fresh or pickled fruit for brightness and texture on top. Three forms of one fruit reinforce one another, so the flavour the dish is named for finally reads clearly on the plate.

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