Korean Savoury Pancakes

Korean savoury pancakes - pajeon (with spring onion), haemul-pajeon (with seafood), or kimchijeon (with kimchi) - are built around a thin, crisp-edged batter and a generous filling, not the other way round. The classic batter is plain flour and a smaller proportion of rice flour or potato starch loosened with cold water; the cold water and starch are what produce the crackly edge in a hot, well-oiled pan. Overload the batter with diced vegetables and you push it toward fritter territory: dense, wet, and steamed-tasting rather than crisp. Serve with a soy-vinegar dipping sauce sharpened with a tiny pinch of gochugaru.