Low-and-Slow Soft Scrambled Eggs

Soft, custardy scrambled eggs are made almost entirely by restraint with heat. Keep the pan on the lowest setting your stove allows so the eggs never sizzle, and stir constantly with a silicone spatula, scraping the base and sides so the curds stay small and glossy. Over six to ten minutes they slowly build into a loose, custard-like scramble with no browning at all - closer to a soft custard than a diner scramble. Because eggs carry over, pull them off the heat while they still look slightly underdone and flowing; a spoon of cold creme fraiche stirred in arrests the cooking and sets them to a silky, spoonable finish. Serve straight away on warm, not hot, plates.