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Ricing Fingerling Potatoes

A ricer produces the fluffiest, lump-free mashed potatoes because it pushes cooked potato through tiny holes, preserving starch structure without overworking it. Fingerling potatoes are thin-skinned and waxy, which makes them a slightly trickier candidate than standard russets. The trick is to peel them before cooking, since the skins will clog the ricer and leave stringy shreds behind. Simmer the peeled fingerlings in salted water until a knife slides in without resistance, drain them well, then press through the ricer straight into warm cream and butter. Whisk gently to finish. You will get a silky, luxurious puree that holds its shape on the plate.

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