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Tempering Whole Spices in Hot Oil

Across South Asia, spices like cumin, nigella seeds, mustard seeds and curry leaves are bloomed briefly in hot oil or ghee before — or after — the rest of a dish is cooked. This step, called tarka or chhonk, releases fat-soluble flavour compounds the spices keep locked away when used dry, and gives a curry, dal or rice dish a layered aromatic finish. Heat the oil until shimmering, drop spices in for ten to thirty seconds until they crackle and darken slightly, then pour the lot over the cooked dish. Burning is the danger; once spices smoke, the flavour turns harsh.

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