Working with Bitter Melon

Bitter melon (karela, foo gwa, ku gua) is a knobbly green gourd whose flesh is so intensely bitter it can numb the tongue if eaten raw and unsalted. To tame it, slice thinly, salt heavily for 20–30 minutes, then squeeze out the dark liquid that beads up — this draws out much of the harshness. From there you can pickle in rice vinegar and sugar, stir-fry with black bean and pork, or stuff and braise. The bitterness is medicinal in many South and Southeast Asian cuisines, prized for cutting through fatty meats. Look for firm, bright green specimens; soft yellow ones are too far gone.