XO Sauce

XO sauce is a Cantonese condiment developed in Hong Kong in the 1980s, named after XO cognac as a symbol of luxury. It is made by slowly frying a paste of dried seafood, typically dried scallops (conpoy) and dried shrimp, with garlic, shallots, dried chili and often cured ham. The result is intensely savory, sweet and smoky, with a concentrated umami depth that elevates almost anything it touches. Use it as a stir-fry base, a finishing condiment for noodles, or, as one chef demonstrated this episode, as the foundation of a rich steak sauce. Ready-made XO sauce is available at Asian grocery stores and keeps refrigerated for several weeks.