Cheeseburger with Bacon and Date Jam

STEP 1: MAKE THE BACON AND DATE JAM

Render the bacon in a cold heavy skillet over medium-low heat for 12-15 minutes, until the fat has run out and the lardons are crisp at the edges but still chewy. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and reserve, then pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat. Cook the shallot in the reserved fat over medium-low heat until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes, then add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add the Medjool dates, 2 tablespoons of the sherry vinegar, the Dijon mustard, black pepper and coffee. Simmer, stirring, until the dates have broken down and the mixture is thick enough to hold a line drawn through it, 8-10 minutes; add a splash of water if it tightens too far. Return the bacon, cook 2 minutes to combine, then take the pan off the heat and stir in the final teaspoon of vinegar. Season with salt and cool to room temperature. The jam should taste bacon-forward with the sweetness arriving second; if it does not, add vinegar half a teaspoon at a time until it does.

STEP 2: MIX THE SPICY HABANERO MAYO

Whisk the mayonnaise, habanero, lime juice, smoked paprika, garlic powder and salt together in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

STEP 3: SOAK AND FIRST-FRY THE POTATOES

Soak the cut potatoes in cold water for 30 minutes, then drain and dry them thoroughly. Heat the neutral oil to 325F (160C) in a deep fryer with basket or a large heavy pot and fry the potatoes for 5-6 minutes, until pale and cooked through. Drain them on a wire rack and rest for at least 10 minutes.

STEP 4: SHAPE AND CHILL THE PATTIES

Divide the ground beef chuck into four 6-oz portions and form each into a patty about 1 inch thick and slightly wider than the bun, handling the meat as little as possible. Press a shallow divot into the centre of each. Refrigerate them until the moment they go into the pan - the thickness and the cold start are what widen the window between rare and medium.

STEP 5: COOK THE PATTIES

Season both sides of the patties heavily with kosher salt and coarse black pepper just before cooking, not before. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high with a film of neutral oil until it is very hot. Lay the patties in and leave them undisturbed for 3 minutes for a hard crust, then flip once. Cook 2-3 minutes on the second side, then probe each patty individually with an instant-read thermometer and pull it at 128-130F (53-54C). Do not time them as a group. They will carry over to 133-135F (56-57C), a true medium rare.

STEP 6: MELT THE CHEESE AND TOAST THE BUNS

Off the heat, lay a slice of American cheese on each patty, cover the pan and let the residual heat melt it, about 90 seconds. Do not return the pan to the burner. Rest the patties for 5 minutes while you toast the brioche buns cut-side down in the butter until golden.

STEP 7: FINISH THE FRIES

Raise the oil to 375F (190C) and fry the potatoes a second time for 2-3 minutes, until deep gold and crisp. Salt them with fine kosher salt the moment they leave the oil, while the surface is still hot enough to take it.

STEP 8: DRESS THE ARUGULA SALAD

Whisk the pickle brine, olive oil and Dijon mustard together and season with salt and black pepper. Dress the arugula at the last moment and fold the sliced dill pickles through.

STEP 9: ASSEMBLE

Spread the habanero mayo generously on both cut faces of each bun. Set the rested patty with its melted cheese on the bottom bun, then spread a thin scrape of the bacon and date jam on the underside of the top bun - about 2 teaspoons per burger, no more. Keeping the jam on the top bun holds it off the beef until the first bite. Close and serve immediately with the fries and the dressed arugula salad alongside.