Easy Cheeseburger with Bacon and Date Jam

STEP 1: MAKE THE BACON AND DATE JAM

Put the bacon in a cold frying pan and set it over medium-low heat. Cook for 10-12 minutes, until the fat has run out and the pieces are crisp at the edges but still chewy. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of the fat, leaving the bacon in the pan. Add the shallot and cook until soft, about 4 minutes, then stir in the garlic for 1 minute more. Add the Medjool dates, 2 tablespoons of the cider vinegar, the Dijon mustard, the black pepper and the water or beef stock. Simmer, stirring, for 8-10 minutes, until the dates have collapsed and the mixture is thick enough to hold a line drawn through it; loosen with a splash of water if it tightens too far. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the final teaspoon of vinegar and season with salt. It should taste bacon-forward, with the sweetness arriving second. Set it aside to cool while you cook everything else. (The original used sherry vinegar and a shot of black coffee - both work here if you have them in.)

STEP 2: MIX THE HABANERO MAYO

Whisk the mayonnaise, habanero hot sauce, lime juice, smoked paprika, garlic powder and a pinch of salt together in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until you need it.

STEP 3: BAKE THE FRIES

Heat the oven to 425F (220C). Spread the frozen fries out in a single layer on a baking tray and bake for 20-25 minutes, turning them once, until deep gold and crisp. Season them with salt the moment they come out of the oven.

STEP 4: COOK THE PATTIES

Divide the ground beef chuck into four portions and pat each into a patty about 3/4 inch thick and slightly wider than the bun, handling the meat as little as possible. Season both sides heavily with salt and coarse black pepper just before they go in the pan, not before. Heat the neutral oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high until it shimmers, lay the patties in and leave them undisturbed for 3 minutes for a hard crust. Flip once and cook for 3 minutes more for a juicy medium.

STEP 5: MELT THE CHEESE AND TOAST THE BUNS

Take the pan off the heat, lay a slice of American cheese on each patty, cover the pan and let the residual heat melt it, about 90 seconds. Lift the patties onto a plate to rest for 5 minutes while you toast the brioche buns cut-side down in the butter until golden.

STEP 6: DRESS THE ARUGULA SALAD

Whisk the olive oil with the pickle brine and season with salt and black pepper. Toss the arugula through it at the last moment and fold the sliced dill pickles in.

STEP 7: ASSEMBLE

Spread the habanero mayo over both cut faces of each bun. Set a cheese-topped patty on the bottom half, then spread about 2 teaspoons of the bacon and date jam on the underside of the top bun - keeping it up there holds it off the beef until the first bite. Close the burgers and serve straight away, with the fries and the dressed arugula alongside.