Hot Chicken Katsu with Mala Spice

STEP 1: MAKE THE MALA BLEND

Toast the Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan over medium heat for about 90 seconds, until they smell citrusy and begin to crackle. Cool, then grind fine and sift through a fine mesh sieve to remove the gritty husks. Combine with the chilli powder, cayenne, light brown sugar, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and white pepper. Stored airtight it keeps for a month, and it is better made a day ahead.

STEP 2: BRINE THE CHICKEN (2 TO 12 HOURS AHEAD)

Open out the chicken thighs and pound them lightly to an even thickness. Whisk the buttermilk with the salt and 1 tbsp of the mala blend. Submerge the thighs, cover and refrigerate. Two hours is enough; overnight is better.

STEP 3: MAKE THE APPLE MISO MUSTARD SAUCE

Simmer the grated apple with the water in a small pan over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until it collapses and the liquid has almost gone. Cool to room temperature - hot apple will dull the miso. Blend or whisk hard with the miso, both mustards, the rice vinegar and the honey until smooth. It should read sweet, then savoury, then sharp, in that order. If you are making sandwiches, fold in the Kewpie mayonnaise now. Like the blend, the sauce is better made a day ahead.

STEP 4: MAKE THE RELISH

Toss the shredded red cabbage with the salt and leave for 15 minutes, then squeeze out the liquid that has drawn. Combine with the chopped sauerkraut and its brine, the rice vinegar, the caster sugar, the oil and the spring onions if using. Adding the sugar after squeezing keeps it in the relish rather than in the discarded liquid. It should be sharp and still crunchy. It will sit for a few hours but not overnight, or the cabbage goes limp.

STEP 5: SET UP THE BREADING

Set out three shallow trays: seasoned flour, beaten egg, panko. Lift the chicken from the brine and wipe off the excess, but do not rinse it. Flour each cutlet and shake off all surplus; dip in egg and let it drain; then press the panko on firmly with the flat of your hand. Rest the breaded cutlets on a rack for 10 minutes so the coating sets. They can be held uncovered in the fridge for up to 4 hours, which improves the crust.

STEP 6: FRY THE CUTLETS

Bring the oil to 170 C / 340 F and hold it there with an instant-read thermometer. Fry two cutlets at a time for 6 to 7 minutes, turning once, until deep gold and 74 C / 165 F at the thickest point. Drain on a cooling rack set over a tray, never on paper, which traps moisture and softens the crust. Bring the oil back up to temperature between batches.

STEP 7: MAKE THE MALA OIL AND DRESS THE CHICKEN

Ladle 175 ml of the hot frying oil into a heatproof bowl and whisk in the 3 tbsp of mala blend, the light brown sugar and the chilli crisp. It will foam and smell enormous. Brush it generously over the top of each cutlet while both the oil and the chicken are still hot. This is the hot chicken step, and it has to happen hot, or the coating absorbs grease without taking on any of the fragrance.

STEP 8: ASSEMBLE AS A SANDO

Butter one face of each slice of milk bread with the softened butter and toast in a dry pan until golden. Spread the sauce on both inner faces. Set a cutlet on the bottom slice, mala side up, heap the relish generously on top, close the sandwich, press gently under a plate for a minute, then cut in half with a long serrated knife.

STEP 9: OR ASSEMBLE AS A PLATED COURSE

Slice each cutlet crosswise into five or six fingers. Sweep the sauce across a warm plate, fan the chicken over it mala side up, and set the relish alongside rather than on top so it stays crisp. Amanda named the dish a katsu sando on air; the plated format is the one the press recaps imply.