Iranian Chicken with Barberry Rice

STEP 1: BLOOM THE SAFFRON

Grind the saffron threads to a fine powder with the pinch of sugar in a mortar and pestle. Pour over 3 tablespoons hot water and leave for 10 minutes. Keep it to a scant 1/8 teaspoon; the color should be golden, not orange.

STEP 2: MARINATE THE CHICKEN

In a large bowl, combine the turmeric, cumin, ground cardamom, 1 1/2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt, pepper, grated onion and its juice, garlic, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon neutral oil. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the saffron water, reserving the remaining tablespoon for the barberries. Add the chicken thighs, turn to coat and refrigerate for 1 to 4 hours.

STEP 3: MAKE THE FLATBREAD DOUGH

Whisk the flour, baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Add the yogurt and 1 tablespoon olive oil, mix, then knead for 2 minutes to a soft dough. Do not over-knead. Cover and rest for at least 20 minutes (up to 2 hours at room temperature).

STEP 4: CHAR THE EGGPLANTS

Char the whole eggplants directly over a gas flame, under a broiler or on a grill pan, turning often, until blackened all over and completely collapsed, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool slightly, peel away the skin, drain the flesh in a fine-mesh sieve for 10 minutes, then chop finely.

STEP 5: BUILD THE DIP BASE

Heat 3 tablespoons neutral oil in the large skillet over medium heat. Fry half the sliced onion until deep golden and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes, then lift onto paper towels for garnish. Add the remaining onion to the pan and cook until soft and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic for 1 minute, then the chopped eggplant, and cook, mashing, for 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and wipe out the skillet.

STEP 6: SOAK THE RICE AND BARBERRIES

Soak the rinsed rice in cold water with 1 tablespoon salt for 30 minutes, then drain. At the same time, soak the barberries in cold water for 10 minutes, drain and pat dry.

STEP 7: PAR-BOIL THE RICE

Bring 3 quarts water and the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons salt to a rolling boil. Add the rice and boil for 5 to 6 minutes, until the grains are tender outside but still firm at the center. Drain and rinse briefly with lukewarm water.

STEP 8: STEAM THE RICE

Melt 2 tablespoons ghee with 2 tablespoons water in the medium saucepan. Mound the rice back in, poke 4 or 5 holes down to the base with a spoon handle and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee. Wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel, cover tightly and cook over medium heat for 8 minutes, then over the lowest heat for 30 to 35 minutes, until fluffy.

STEP 9: COOK THE CHICKEN

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons neutral oil in the large skillet over medium heat, not high. Lay in the chicken, shaking off excess onion pulp, and cook for 5 to 6 minutes until golden underneath. Turn, add the marinade scraped from the bowl and 1/2 cup water, cover and cook over medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes. Use an instant-read thermometer and stop at 175 to 180°F at the thickest point. Uncover and reduce the pan juices to a glaze, 2 to 3 minutes.

STEP 10: FINISH THE KASHK-E BADEMJAN

Rewarm the eggplant gently, then stir in the kashk (or yogurt) off the heat. Taste before adding the 1/2 teaspoon salt, as kashk is salty. In the small skillet, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon neutral oil over low heat, add the dried mint and stir for 20 seconds until fragrant; do not let it darken. Spoon over the dip and top with the crisp fried onion. Wipe out the small skillet.

STEP 11: COOK THE FLATBREADS

Divide the dough into 6 pieces and roll each to about 1/8 inch thick on a floured surface with a rolling pin. Cook one at a time in the dry cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, 1 to 2 minutes per side, until puffed with charred spots. Brush with olive oil and keep wrapped in a towel.

STEP 12: WARM THE BARBERRIES

Melt the butter in the small skillet over low heat, then take the pan off the burner. Add the drained barberries and 2 teaspoons sugar and stir for 30 to 45 seconds until glossy and plump. Stir in the reserved saffron water. Barberries are high in sugar and blacken within seconds over direct heat, so never return the pan to the flame.

STEP 13: SEASON, PLATE AND SERVE

Taste the chicken glaze and the kashk-e bademjan and adjust the salt. Mound the rice on one side of each plate and scatter the barberries over the top. Lean the chicken against the rice with a spoonful of glaze. Set a small bowl of kashk-e bademjan alongside and serve the flatbreads folded in a basket rather than on the plate.