MAKE THE SAKE POACHED PLUMS (Can Be Done Ahead)
1. Combine the sake, sugar, lemon zest and lemon juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then bring to a gentle simmer.
2. Add the plum quarters and reduce the heat to low. Poach gently for 8–12 minutes depending on ripeness — you want them tender but still holding their shape. Very ripe plums may need as little as 5 minutes.
3. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the plums to a plate. Return the poaching liquid to medium-high heat and reduce by about two-thirds until syrupy and glossy — it should coat the back of a spoon. Remove the lemon zest strip and set the syrup aside.

MAKE THE PANCAKE BATTER BASE
4. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the milk and vanilla extract until combined.
5. Sift the flour and salt over the top — dust the flour in lightly so it aerates and creates a really nice light, fluffy batter. Whisk gently until just smooth. Do not overwork. Set aside.

MAKE THE MERINGUE
6. In a spotlessly clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites with the cream of tartar using an electric whisk. Start on medium speed until frothy, then increase to high and gradually add the sugar a teaspoon at a time.
7. Whisk to stiff, glossy peaks — the meringue should hold its shape firmly when the whisk is lifted, with the tip pointing straight up without flopping. The cream of tartar stabilises the meringue, preventing it from weeping or deflating during folding and cooking.

FOLD THE MERINGUE INTO THE BATTER
8. Take about a third of the meringue and stir it into the yolk batter quite vigorously — this sacrificial third loosens the base and makes subsequent folds easier. It will lose its volume; this is expected.
9. Add the remaining meringue in two additions, folding with a large metal spoon using a figure-of-eight motion, scooping from the bottom and folding over the top, rotating the bowl a quarter turn each time. Stop as soon as no white streaks remain. The batter should be thick, mousse-like and hold soft peaks.

COOK THE PANCAKES
10. Heat a large non-stick frying pan over the lowest possible heat. Add the tiniest amount of oil or butter and wipe out the excess with kitchen paper.
11. Spoon a generous dollop of batter (about 3–4 tablespoons) into the pan, letting it mound naturally into a tall disc rather than spreading it out. Leave plenty of space between pancakes.
12. Cover with a lid and cook for approximately 4 minutes.
13. After 4 minutes, add a second spoonful of batter directly on top of each pancake to build height. Add a few drops of water only to the pan (not onto the pancakes) and immediately replace the lid. Too much water can deflate the pancakes — barely a teaspoon is enough.
14. Cook for another 4 minutes with the lid on. The pancakes are done when they are puffed, set around the edges and jiggle like a jellyfish when gently prodded.
15. Carefully flip each pancake using two spatulas and cook uncovered for a final 1–2 minutes. Do not press down.

ASSEMBLE AND SERVE
16. Stack 2–3 pancakes per plate, slightly overlapping. Arrange the sake-poached plum quarters around and beside them.
17. Drizzle the reduced sake syrup generously over the plums and let it pool slightly on the plate. Dust the pancakes with icing sugar through a fine sieve. Add a quenelle of whipped cream or crème fraîche if desired. Serve immediately — the wobble is part of the presentation.