Matsutake Potato Dumpling

STEP 1: BUILD THE PIG'S EAR STOCK

Rinse the pig's ears, singe off any stray hairs, and blanch the ears and pork bones in boiling water for 5 minutes; drain and rinse. Return them to a clean stockpot with the spring onions, ginger, garlic and water. Bring to a bare simmer, skimming often, and cook gently for 3–4 hours until the stock is rich and gelatinous. In the final 15 minutes add the kombu off a hard boil for a clean savoury backbone. Strain through a fine sieve.

STEP 2: CLARIFY AND HOLD THE BROTH HOT

Strain the stock again through muslin until clear, then season carefully with light soy and salt — keep it clean and restrained rather than aggressively seasoned. At the competition the broth reached the diners too cool, so keep the finished stock hot and covered and do not pour it until the instant of serving (see Step 7). A clear, hot, lightly seasoned broth lets the dumpling stay the focus.

STEP 3: QUICK-PICKLE THE HONSHIMEJI

Separate the honshimeji. Blanch them in boiling salted water for 60 seconds, then drain well and pat thoroughly dry — this single step is what prevents a slimy texture. Warm the rice vinegar, water, sugar and salt until dissolved, cool slightly, then pour over the blanched mushrooms in a clean jar. Pickle at least 1 hour (or overnight). Drain before plating so they read crisp and bright, not slick.

STEP 4: BAKE THE POTATOES AND PREPARE THE MATSUTAKE

Bake the whole potatoes at 400°F (200°C) for about 1 hour until completely tender. Meanwhile, melt the butter and gently cook the finely minced matsutake until soft and dry, with no residual moisture that would slacken the dough. Season lightly and cool.

STEP 5: MAKE THE LIGHT POTATO DUMPLING

While the potatoes are still hot, halve them and rice the flesh through a potato ricer onto a clean surface — never a food processor, which makes them gluey. Spread to release heat and cool briefly. Make a well, add the egg yolks, salt, nutmeg and the cooled matsutake, and scatter over most of the flour. Bring together with a bench scraper using the lightest possible hand, adding only enough flour to form a soft, just-cohesive dough. Roll into ropes, cut into small pillows, and keep them delicate.

STEP 6: CRISP THE GARNISHES

Render the diced pork jowl slowly in a dry pan until deeply crisp, then drain on paper. In a little neutral oil over high heat, sear the sliced matsutake hard on both sides so it is browned and firm, not soft. Use these with restraint — a few pieces each, dressed only with their own savour, so they support the dumpling rather than compete with it.

STEP 7: COOK AND PLATE À LA MINUTE

Bring a wide pan of well-salted water to a gentle simmer and warm the serving bowls. Poach the dumplings in batches for about 2–3 minutes, until they float and are just set; lift out with a slotted spoon. Working quickly into the pre-warmed bowls, arrange the dumplings, scatter the seared matsutake, crisp jowl and drained pickled honshimeji with a light hand, and finish with chives. Pour the hot pig's ear stock at the table, at the last possible moment.