Twisted Spice and Chili Breadsticks

STEP 1: TOAST AND GRIND THE SPICES

Put the cumin seeds and coriander seeds in a small dry skillet over medium heat and shake the pan for 1-2 minutes, until fragrant and a shade darker. Tip them onto a plate at once, cool, then grind fine in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Mix with the Mexican oregano and ground cinnamon and set aside for the spice dough.

STEP 2: MIX THE SPICE DOUGH

Put the flour for the spice dough into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add the yeast to one side and the salt and caster sugar to the other, then add the spice blend. Add the olive oil and most of the warm water and mix on low, holding back the last tablespoon of water until you can feel the dough. Knead on medium for 6-8 minutes, or 10 minutes by hand, to a firm, tight, smooth dough. Transfer to a clean bowl and cover.

STEP 3: MIX THE CHILI DOUGH

Without washing the mixer bowl, make the chili dough the same way: flour, yeast on one side, salt and sugar on the other, then the ancho chili powder, chipotle chili powder, smoked paprika and chili flakes, if using. Add the olive oil and most of the warm water, holding back the last tablespoon, and knead as before. Making the chili dough second saves washing the bowl between batches, since ground chili stains. Transfer to a second clean bowl and cover.

STEP 4: MATCH THE DOUGHS

Press a fingertip into each dough; they should feel equally firm. Ground chili absorbs water, so if the chili dough feels stiffer, knead in up to 1 teaspoon more warm water until it matches. Doughs of different firmness roll to different lengths, twist unevenly and bake to different textures.

STEP 5: PROVE

Prove both doughs, covered, at room temperature for about 1 hour, until risen by half rather than doubled. An open, airy crumb bends instead of snapping.

STEP 6: DIVIDE

Turn each dough onto a bench dusted with semolina rather than flour and divide each one into 36 equal pieces of 11-12 g, weighing them on a digital scale. Keep the pieces covered while you work so the surfaces don't dry and form a skin, which would stop the strands bonding.

STEP 7: ROLL, BOND AND TWIST

Work one pair at a time. Roll one spice piece and one chili piece under flat palms to about 32 cm each, evenly thin from end to end; they need to be a little longer than the finished stick because twisting shortens them. Mist both strands very lightly with water, or touch them with a barely damp brush, so they feel tacky but not wet. Lay them side by side, pinch the top ends firmly together, then roll the two ends in opposite directions under your palms to make a tight, even spiral. Finish with one gentle pass of a flat hand along the whole length to press the strands into each other, then pinch the bottom ends. Check against the card guide: each stick should measure 28-30 cm.

STEP 8: REST UNCOVERED

Lay the sticks 2 cm apart on baking sheets lined with parchment, pressing the ends lightly onto the paper so they can't unwind. Rest uncovered for 15 minutes to set a light skin. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200°C / 400°F (180°C fan) and beat the egg white with a pinch of fine salt.

STEP 9: GLAZE AND BAKE

Brush the sticks very lightly with the salted egg white, which also seals the seam between the strands, and scatter with crushed flaky sea salt. Bake for 12 minutes, turn the sheets, then bake for another 6-8 minutes until the spice strand is pale gold. Watch the chili strand closely: it browns faster than the spice strand and turns bitter if pushed.

STEP 10: DRY THROUGH

Reduce the oven to 140°C / 275°F and leave the sticks in for a further 12-15 minutes to dry through to the core; this low second stage is what gives the snap. Cool completely on a wire cooling rack; they crisp further as they cool. Store airtight at room temperature for up to 5 days, and refresh in a 150°C / 300°F oven for 5 minutes if needed.

STEP 11: SERVE

Stand the breadsticks upright in a tall glass so the spiral shows, with guacamole, a smoky bean dip or a sour cream and lime dip alongside.