Forced Rhubarb

Forced rhubarb is grown in darkened sheds, traditionally in the 'Rhubarb Triangle' between Wakefield, Morley and Rothwell in Yorkshire, where the plants are lifted from the field after a winter chill and brought indoors to grow on by candlelight. Deprived of sunlight, the stems can't photosynthesise, so they put their stored energy into rapid upward growth - producing the slender, candy-pink stalks with pale yellow leaves that appear in British shops between January and March. The flavour is gentler and sweeter than outdoor rhubarb, and the colour is the real prize: a vivid blush that no amount of cooking will fade, where field-grown rhubarb tends to stew to a dull khaki. For desserts where the rhubarb is the visual hero - a roulade spiral, a meringue topping, a clear-glazed tart - forced rhubarb is worth seeking out. Outside the season, or outside the UK, look for the youngest, pinkest stalks you can find; a small pinch of beetroot powder or a splash of grenadine can rescue colour from greener field rhubarb if presentation matters.