Apple Stack Cake & Semifreddo

STEP 1: MAKE THE DARK APPLE BUTTER

Combine the sweet apples and apple cider in a wide heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes until completely soft. Blend until smooth, return to the pan and stir in the dark brown sugar, cinnamon and cloves. Cook uncovered over low heat, stirring every few minutes and more often toward the end, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours until deep brown and thick enough that a spoonful holds its shape on a cold plate. Cool completely. You need 1/2 cup; good store-bought apple butter works if time is short. This can be made up to 1 week ahead.

STEP 2: MAKE THE BRIGHT APPLE BUTTER

Simmer the Granny Smith apples, water, sugar and lemon juice, covered, for 12 to 15 minutes until soft. Blend until very smooth, then cook uncovered, stirring, for 5 to 8 minutes more until thick. Cool completely. This sharp butter keeps the semifreddo tasting of apple rather than just sweetness.

STEP 3: MAKE THE APPLE SEMIFREDDO

Line the loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang. Whip the cream to soft peaks and refrigerate. In a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, apple cider and salt constantly until thick, pale and 160°F (71°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and beat on high speed until completely cold and doubled in volume. Fold in both apple butters and the vanilla extract, then fold in the whipped cream in two additions, and finally the chopped dried apple. Scrape into the lined pan, cover and freeze for at least 6 hours, until firm enough to slice.

STEP 4: MAKE THE APPLE FILLING

Simmer the chopped dried apple in the apple cider for 10 minutes to plump. Add the diced fresh apples, dark brown sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring gently, for 8 to 10 minutes until the apples are tender but every piece still holds its shape. Lift the apples out with a slotted spoon, reduce the liquid to a thick syrup, then fold it back into the apples. Cool completely. Do not cook it down to a sauce; the apple pieces should stay visible and keep their bite.

STEP 5: MIX THE STACK CAKE DOUGH

Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease the two cake pans and line the bases with parchment paper. Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger, allspice and cloves. In a stand mixer, beat the softened butter and light brown sugar until light, about 3 minutes, then beat in the molasses and the egg. On low speed, add the dry ingredients in three additions, alternating with the buttermilk. The batter will be very thick, closer to a soft dough; that is correct for a stack cake.

STEP 6: BAKE SIX THIN LAYERS

Divide the dough into six equal portions, about 5 1/2 oz (155 g) each. Press one portion evenly into each prepared pan, about 1/4 inch thick, using floured fingers or an offset spatula. For the final layer only, brush the surface with the melted butter and scatter the demerara sugar evenly over it to form the crunchy top crust. Bake each layer for 10 to 12 minutes until it springs back and the edges just pull away from the pan. Cool for 3 minutes, turn out onto a wire rack (keep the sugared layer right side up), re-line the pans and repeat until you have six layers.

STEP 7: STACK THE CAKE

Place one plain layer on a cake plate and spread with one-fifth of the apple filling, leaving a small border. Repeat with the remaining plain layers and filling, finishing with the demerara-topped layer. Serve within a few hours to keep the top crunchy, as in the competition. For the traditional softer texture, cover loosely and rest at cool room temperature for up to 8 hours so the layers absorb the apple; the top will soften.

STEP 8: MAKE THE APPLE GEL

Whisk the agar agar into the cold apple juice with the sugar and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, whisking, and boil for 1 full minute. Pour into a shallow dish and refrigerate until fully set, about 30 minutes. Blend until perfectly smooth and glossy, adding a splash of apple juice if it is too stiff. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve and fill a squeeze bottle.

STEP 9: MAKE THE APPLE COULIS

Simmer the Granny Smith apples, water, sugar, lemon juice and salt, covered, for 10 minutes until soft. Blend until very smooth and pass through a fine-mesh sieve. It should be pourable; loosen with a little water if needed. Chill. Taste the coulis and gel last and pull back their sugar if needed, as the finished dessert should not be too sweet.

STEP 10: PLATE

Spoon a pool of apple coulis onto each plate. Cut the stack cake into eight wedges with a long serrated knife and set one on the coulis. Slice the semifreddo about 3/4 inch thick with a knife dipped in hot water and lean a slice against the cake. Pipe dots of apple gel around the plate and serve immediately.