Coffee-Infused Hanger Steak

STEP 1: SEASON THE STEAK

Cut along either side of the tough central membrane of the hanger steak and pull it out, leaving two long lobes. In a small bowl, combine the coffee, ancho chile powder, brown sugar, salt, pepper, garlic powder and cumin. Pat the steak dry and press the rub firmly onto every surface. Leave at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate uncovered for up to 8 hours.

STEP 2: START THE RICE

Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the rinsed rice and the chopped cilantro stems and toast, stirring, for 2 minutes until the grains turn opaque at the edges. Add the water, salt and the zest of 2 limes. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, reduce to the lowest heat and cook for 17 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes without lifting the lid.

STEP 3: CHAR THE PEPPERS

Rub the poblanos with the olive oil. Char them directly over a gas flame, on a very hot grill or under the broiler, turning every couple of minutes, until the skins are blackened all over and the flesh has softened and slumped, 10 to 12 minutes. Take them further than you normally would; the deep char gives the dish its chile depth. Transfer to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 10 minutes. Rub off most of the loose skin, leaving a few charred flecks. Slit each pepper down one side and remove the seeds, keeping it whole as an open boat. Season with the salt.

STEP 4: MAKE THE LIME CREMA

Whisk together the crema, lime zest, lime juice and salt. Loosen with milk or water, a teaspoon at a time, until it falls from a spoon in a ribbon. Refrigerate until serving.

STEP 5: MAKE THE COFFEE CORN

Heat the second skillet over high heat until smoking. Add the corn in a single layer with no fat and leave it undisturbed for 3 minutes until deeply charred underneath. Toss and repeat until many kernels are blistered and dark brown, working in two batches if the pan is crowded. Reduce the heat to medium, add the butter, then the cold-brew concentrate, and toss until the liquid has evaporated and glazed the kernels, about 1 minute. Season with the salt and ancho chile powder.

STEP 6: SEAR THE STEAK

Shake off any loose rub. Heat the oil in the first skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Sear the steak lobes for 4 to 5 minutes per side, turning once or twice more if the sugar in the rub darkens too fast, until the thickest part reads 130°F (54°C) for medium-rare. The crust should be dark and fragrant, not acrid; lower the heat slightly if it smokes heavily. Rest on a board for 8 minutes.

STEP 7: FINISH THE RICE

Fluff the rice with a fork. Fold in the juice of all 3 limes and the chopped cilantro leaves. Taste; it should be assertively lime-forward. Add more salt if needed to carry the acidity.

STEP 8: PLATE THE DISH

Lay a charred poblano open on each plate. Spoon cilantro-lime rice into and beside it, then scatter the coffee corn over and around. Slice the steak thinly across the grain, noting that the grain changes direction between the two lobes, and fan the slices over the pepper. Drizzle with lime crema and finish with cotija, if using, cilantro leaves and a lime wedge.