Green Risotto with a Mole Negro

STEP 1: TOAST AND SOAK THE CHILES (MOLE)

Wipe the dried chiles clean. On a hot comal or dry skillet, toast the chilhuacle, mulato, pasilla, and ancho chiles for a few seconds per side until fragrant and pliable — do not let them burn to bitterness. Reserve a spoonful of the mulato seeds and toast those separately until they blacken and smoke; this controlled charring is part of what gives mole negro its colour and depth. Soak the toasted chiles in hot water for 20–30 minutes, then drain.

STEP 2: CHAR THE AROMATICS AND BLACKEN THE TORTILLA (MOLE)

On the same comal, char the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion wedges, and unpeeled garlic until blackened in patches and softened; peel the garlic. Char the corn tortilla directly over the flame or on the comal until it is genuinely black and brittle — this is intentional and essential to the “negro.” Char the bread lightly too.

STEP 3: TOAST THE NUTS, SEEDS, AND SPICES (MOLE)

Toast the sesame seeds until golden (reserve some for garnish). Toast the almonds, peanuts, and pepitas until lightly coloured. Briefly toast the cinnamon, whole cloves, allspice, peppercorns, cumin seeds, and oregano until fragrant. Fry the plantain slices in a little lard until golden, and plump the raisins in warm water.

STEP 4: BLEND IN STAGES (MOLE)

Working in batches, blend the soaked chiles with a little stock until completely smooth. Separately blend the charred vegetables, blackened tortilla, bread, nuts, seeds, spices, plantain, and raisins with more stock to a smooth paste. A high-powered blender matters here: the hallmark of Gabri’s dish, praised by Tom Colicchio, was the flawless consistency of the mole. Pass each blend through a fine sieve for silkiness.

STEP 5: FRY AND SIMMER THE MOLE

Heat the lard in a heavy pot until shimmering. Add the chile purée (stand back — it will spatter) and fry, stirring constantly, for 5–8 minutes to concentrate it. Add the nut-and-spice paste and fry for another 8–10 minutes so the raw edge cooks out. Stir in the chopped Mexican chocolate until melted, then loosen with warm stock to a velvety, coating consistency. Season with salt and balance with piloncillo. Add a few sprigs of fresh thyme and the bay leaves, then simmer gently, partly covered, for at least 45 minutes — longer is better — adding stock as needed. Remove the thyme and bay leaves before serving. Ideally, cool and rest overnight, then reheat to serve.

STEP 6: MAKE THE SALSA VERDE (GREEN BASE)

While the mole simmers, make the green base. Simmer the tomatillos and serranos in a little water for about 8 minutes until soft, or char them on the comal for a smokier note. Blend with the onion, garlic, cilantro, parsley, and spinach until smooth and vivid green. Season with salt. Keep this bright and fresh — it is the herbal counterpoint Gail Simmons singled out against the mole’s earthiness.

STEP 7: COOK THE GREEN RISOTTO (ARROZ VERDE)

In a wide pan, warm the olive oil and 1 tbsp of the butter. Soften the diced onion and garlic without colouring. Add the rice and toast for 1–2 minutes until the edges turn translucent. Add the white wine and let it cook away. Add hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring often, letting each addition absorb before the next — about 16–18 minutes. When the rice is nearly al dente, stir through most of the salsa verde to turn it green and infuse the herb flavour; add a little more stock if needed to keep it loose and creamy.

STEP 8: FINISH AND PLATE

Off the heat, beat in the remaining cold butter and the grated cotija or Parmesan for gloss and body — the risotto should ripple, not stand stiff. Check the seasoning. To plate as Gabri did, spoon or spiral the warm mole negro onto each plate, then place a mound of the green risotto so the two meet — the deep, dark mole against the bright green rice. Scatter the reserved toasted sesame seeds, add a few micro cilantro leaves, and finish with a thread of olive oil if you like. Serve at once.