Jollof Fries, Suya Spice Lamb

STEP 1: MAKE THE SUYA BLEND AND MARINATE THE LAMB

Pulse the peanuts in a spice grinder or small food processor to a coarse meal, stopping well before they turn to butter. Tip into a bowl and stir through the sweet paprika, cayenne, onion and garlic powders, ground ginger, one crumbled bouillon cube and the ground allspice. Toss the lamb cubes with 3 tablespoons of the blend, the peanut oil, lime juice, grated garlic and kosher salt. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to overnight. Keep the remaining blend in a sealed jar for finishing.

STEP 2: COOK THE MANGO CHUTNEY

Combine the mango, light brown sugar, cider vinegar, grated ginger, garlic, minced scotch bonnet, ground allspice, lime zest and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat and cook 20 to 25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the mango has slumped and the syrup coats the back of a spoon. Fish out the lime zest and cool to room temperature. It thickens as it sits and is better made a day ahead.

STEP 3: REDUCE THE JOLLOF BASE

Blend the red bell peppers, plum tomato, the chopped half of the red onion and the whole scotch bonnet to a smooth puree. Warm the 3 tablespoons of oil in a wide saucepan over medium heat, add the tomato paste and fry it 2 to 3 minutes until it darkens and loses its raw edge. Pour in the puree — stand back, it will spit — then add the Jamaican curry powder, dried thyme, bay leaf and smoked paprika. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it reduces to a thick, glossy paste that holds a clean trail when you drag a spoon through it. Season with the second crumbled bouillon cube and salt to taste, and discard the bay leaf. This is the step the dish stands or falls on: jollof flavor comes from reduction, not volume. A loose base will soften the fries the moment the two meet.

STEP 4: FRY THE POTATOES

Soak the potato batons in cold water 20 minutes, then drain and dry them thoroughly. Toss with the cornstarch. To fry, bring 3 inches of neutral oil in a deep fryer or heavy deep pot to 300°F, cook the fries in batches for 5 minutes without letting them color, and drain. Raise the oil to 375°F and fry again in batches for 2 to 3 minutes until deep gold and rigid. To oven-roast instead, toss the batons with 3 tablespoons oil, spread them on a hot sheet pan and roast at 450°F for 30 to 35 minutes, turning once. Salt while hot.

STEP 5: SEAR THE LAMB

Thread the marinated lamb onto skewers or leave the cubes loose. Get a heavy skillet or grill pan very hot with a film of oil. Sear the cubes hard, 2 to 3 minutes a side, to medium — about 135°F at the center. The ground peanut in the rub browns fast, so keep the meat moving. Rest 5 minutes, then dust with a little more of the dry suya blend while the meat is still warm.

STEP 6: FRY THE PLANTAINS

Shallow-fry the plantain slices in 1/4 inch of neutral oil over medium heat, about 2 minutes a side, until the sugars caramelize to a deep amber. Drain on paper and salt lightly. Do these last — they lose their edge within minutes.

STEP 7: PLATE

Toss the hot fries with just enough jollof base to lacquer them. Start with half and add more only while the fries stay separate and audible. Pile them on a warm plate, lean the lamb against them, spoon the mango chutney alongside rather than over, and tuck the plantains in at the edge. Scatter the reserved finely diced raw red onion and the cilantro leaves. Lime wedge on the side.