Soufflé Arnold Bennett

STEP 1: POACH THE HADDOCK AND INFUSE THE MILK

Put the milk, one star anise, three cloves, the bay leaf and peppercorns in a wide pan and bring to a bare simmer. Lower in the haddock skin-side down and poach gently for 5–8 minutes, until it flakes at a light push. Lift out, peel off the skin and flake the fish into large pieces, checking for bones. Strain the milk and reserve it — it now carries both smoke and spice and will flavour every element.

STEP 2: PREPARE THE MOULDS

Brush the dariole moulds thoroughly with softened butter using upward strokes — the strokes guide the rise — and chill them. Dust the insides lightly with finely grated Comté for grip and a savoury crust. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) with a roasting tin ready for a water bath.

STEP 3: MAKE THE SOUFFLÉ BASE

Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook the roux for 1–2 minutes without colour. Whisk in about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the warm infused milk a little at a time to a thick, smooth panade. Off the heat, beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then the Comté, Dijon, nutmeg and a cautious pinch of salt — taste, as the haddock and cheese are already salty. Fold through the flaked haddock; the base should be thick and glossy.

STEP 4: WHISK THE WHITES AND FOLD

Whisk the egg whites with the cream of tartar — an electric hand or stand mixer makes light work — to firm, glossy peaks that just hold, not dry. Stir a spoonful into the base to loosen it, then fold in the rest in two or three additions with a large metal spoon, cutting through and lifting to keep as much air as possible. Stop the moment no white streaks remain.

STEP 5: FIRST BAKE

Divide the mixture between the moulds, filling almost to the top, and level. Sit them in the roasting tin and pour in boiling water to come halfway up the moulds. Bake for 18–20 minutes, until risen and just set with a slight wobble. Lift out and cool for 10 minutes — they will sink a little, which is expected for a twice-baked soufflé. Run a knife around each and turn out into a buttered baking dish, presentation-side up.

STEP 6: MAKE THE SPICED BÉCHAMEL

Top the reserved infused milk up to 1 cup (240 ml) with fresh milk if needed and warm it with the extra star anise and clove; leave to infuse off the heat for 10 minutes, then strain. Melt the butter, cook the flour to a pale roux, then whisk in the spiced milk gradually to a smooth, pourable sauce. Simmer gently for 3–4 minutes, finish with the cream and season lightly. It should coat the back of a spoon.

STEP 7: SECOND BAKE

Pour the double cream around and over the turned-out soufflés and scatter the finishing Comté across the tops. Return to the 375°F (190°C) oven for 12–15 minutes, until puffed again, golden and bubbling at the edges. The second rise is gentler than the first but gives the airy lift Grace praised.

STEP 8: COMTÉ CRISP BREAD

While the soufflés finish, butter the bread lightly, pile on the grated Comté and toast under a hot grill (broiler) or in the oven until deeply golden and crisp at the edges. Watch closely; Comté catches quickly.

STEP 9: TO SERVE

Set a soufflé on each warm plate, spoon the spiced béchamel around it, and lean a shard of Comté crisp bread alongside. Finish with snipped chives. Serve immediately, while the tops are still lifted and the sauce is glossy and warm.