Spiced Chickpea Burger and Chips

STEP 1: BOIL THE CHIPS (FIRST COOK)

Peel the potatoes and cut into even chips about 3/4 inch thick. Rinse under cold water. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil with the kosher salt, add the chips and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes until the edges are just starting to break up. Lift out carefully with a slotted spoon onto a wire rack set over a sheet pan and leave until the surface looks dry and floury. Refrigerate, uncovered, until completely cold, at least 30 minutes. The roughed-up edges are what turn crisp later.

STEP 2: MAKE THE BURGER MIX

Toast the cumin seeds in a small dry skillet over medium heat for about 1 minute until fragrant, then tip out. Add the 1 tbsp oil to the skillet and gently cook the red onion, garlic and green chili for 4–5 minutes until soft but not colored; let cool. Pulse the chickpeas in a food processor to a coarse paste, keeping some texture. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the toasted cumin, ground coriander, garam masala, softened aromatics, cilantro, lemon zest, chickpea (gram) flour, panko and kosher salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The mix should hold firmly when squeezed; if it feels wet, add another tablespoon of chickpea flour.

STEP 3: SHAPE AND SET THE PATTIES

Divide the mix in two and press each portion firmly into a patty about 3/4 inch thick with smooth edges. Place on a parchment-lined tray and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes so they set; a patty that goes into the pan before it has set will fall apart.

STEP 4: FRY THE CHIPS (SECOND COOK)

Heat the deep-frying oil in a heavy deep pot or deep fryer to 265°F, checking with a deep-fry thermometer. Fry the chilled chips in batches for 8–10 minutes until a pale crust forms but they have not colored. Drain on the wire rack and let cool completely.

STEP 5: MAKE THE DIPS

For the mint and chili yogurt, stir together the Greek yogurt, mint, green chili, lemon juice and a pinch of salt, then refrigerate. For the tarragon mayonnaise, whisk the egg yolk and Dijon mustard in a bowl. Whisk in the 3/4 cup oil a few drops at a time until it begins to thicken, then add the rest in a thin, steady stream. Whisk in the white wine vinegar, tarragon and a pinch of salt.

STEP 6: COOK THE BURGERS

Heat the 2 tbsp oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Cook the chilled patties for 4–5 minutes per side, turning only once, until deep golden, crisp outside and hot through. Low heat sets the crust before the patty is moved.

STEP 7: FRY THE CHIPS (THIRD COOK)

While the burgers cook, raise the oil to 355°F. Fry the chips in batches for 3–4 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Drain and sprinkle with flaky sea salt immediately.

STEP 8: TOAST AND ASSEMBLE

Melt the butter in a skillet over gentle heat and toast the cut sides of the brioche buns until just golden. Set a patty in each bun and serve with the chips, the mint and chili yogurt and the tarragon mayonnaise on the side.