Swan Lake Cherry Cheesecake

STEP 1: PREPARE THE PAN

Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the lower third. Wrap the outside of the 9-inch springform pan in two layers of heavy-duty foil.

STEP 2: BAKE THE BASE

Mix the graham cracker crumbs, sugar and melted butter. Press firmly over the base of the pan. Bake for 10 minutes, then cool on a rack. Leave the oven at 350°F for the swans.

STEP 3: MELT THE SWAN CANDY

Set a silicone baking mat on a baking sheet. Spread the crushed candy in small heaps on the mat: one oval heap for each of 5 swan bodies and two smaller heaps for each pair of wings. Bake for 4–6 minutes, until just melted and glassy. Cool for 30–60 seconds, until pliable but not runny.

STEP 4: SHAPE THE SWANS

Wearing lightly oiled heatproof gloves, pull each body up into a long, thin neck and a small head; a neck drawn well above the body is what makes it read as a swan rather than a duck. Snip the wing pieces into feathered edges with oiled kitchen scissors and press them against the body while still warm so they fuse. If the candy stiffens, return it to the oven for a minute. Cool completely and keep somewhere dry. Lower the oven to 300°F and boil a kettle.

STEP 5: MAKE THE FILLING

Beat the cream cheese and sugar on low speed until smooth, scraping the bowl. Beat in the flour and salt. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing on low just until each disappears. Mix in the sour cream, vanilla extract, lemon zest and lemon juice. Do not whip in air.

STEP 6: BAKE IN A WATER BATH

Pour the filling over the cooled base. Stand the pan in the roasting pan and pour boiling water from the kettle halfway up the sides. Bake for 55–65 minutes, until the edge is set and the center wobbles as one piece. The filling should sit slightly higher at the edge than in the middle; that raised lip is what holds the lake.

STEP 7: COOL SLOWLY

Turn the oven off, prop the door ajar and leave the cheesecake inside for 1 hour. Lift it out of the water, remove the foil and run a thin knife around the edge. Let it come to room temperature before it goes anywhere cold; a warm cheesecake put straight into the fridge is shocked and cracks. Chill overnight until firm.

STEP 8: COOK THE CHERRIES

In a small saucepan, cook the cherries, sugar and lemon juice over medium heat for 6–8 minutes, until the cherries are tender and have released their juice.

STEP 9: THICKEN THE LAKE

Tip the cherries into a sieve set over a bowl. Return the syrup to the pan and bring to a simmer. Mix the cornstarch with the cold water, stir it into the syrup and cook for 1 minute until thick and glossy. Fold the cherries back in and cool completely; the compote will set further as it cools. Taste it: it should be bright, not sour.

STEP 10: ASSEMBLE

Spoon the cold compote into the center of the chilled cheesecake and spread it to the raised lip, leaving a narrow rim of filling as the shore. There should be no loose syrup. Float the swans on the lake just before serving so the candy stays crisp; in humid weather, place them at the table.