Coffee and Donuts

STEP 1: MAKE THE MALTED MILK BAVAROIS

Bloom the gelatine in cold water. Warm the milk with the malted milk powder until steaming. Whisk the yolks and sugar to a pale ribbon, pour on the hot malted milk whisking constantly, then return to the pan and cook gently to 82–84°C, stirring, until it coats the back of a spoon. Off the heat, stir in the squeezed gelatine and vanilla. Strain and cool over ice to the point of setting. Fold in the softly whipped cream in three additions, keeping it airy. Divide among moulds and chill at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. Reserve the extra 1 tbsp malted milk powder for dusting at the plate. Keep the bavarois feather-light and do not over-set.

STEP 2: MAKE THE COCOA NIB TUILE

Melt the sugar, glucose and butter together, stir in the flour and cocoa nibs, and spread very thinly onto a silicone mat. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for 6–8 minutes until an even amber. While still warm, cut or snap into shards. Store airtight with a silica sachet — humidity is the enemy of crunch.

STEP 3: MAKE THE BLACKCURRANT GEL

Simmer the blackcurrants with sugar, water and lemon juice for 8–10 minutes, then blend and pass through a fine sieve. Return the smooth purée to the pan, whisk in the agar, bring to a boil for 60 seconds, then pour into a shallow tray and chill until firmly set. Blend the set gel to a glossy, pipeable purée and load into a piping bag. Taste for sharp acidity — it should cut, not merely sweeten.

STEP 4: LIGHTEN THE COFFEE ESPUMA

Warm a little of the milk and dissolve the bloomed gelatine into it; combine with the espresso, remaining milk, cream and sugar. Keep the cream restrained — too much fat weighs the foam down. Strain, chill fully, then charge in a siphon with two chargers, shaking well. Test onto a spoon: it should fall as a light, bittersweet foam that holds only briefly, not a stiff mousse. Keep the siphon cold until plating.

STEP 5: FRY THE BEIGNETS

Whisk the warm milk, yeast and sugar; combine with the flour, egg and soft butter to a smooth, slightly sticky dough. Knead briefly, then prove until doubled (about 1 hour). Shape into small balls, prove 20 minutes more, and fry at 170°C (340°F) for 1–2 minutes per side until deep golden and cooked through. Drain and roll in caster sugar while hot. Make the dough ahead so the beignets fry as a discrete final step rather than mid-service.

STEP 6: PLATE THE DESSERT

Turn out a bavarois just off-centre on each plate and dust lightly with the reserved malted milk powder. Pipe dots of blackcurrant gel around it and stand a cocoa nib tuile shard upright in the bavarois. Set a warm sugared beignet alongside as the centrepiece. Just before serving, siphon a generous, airy quenelle of coffee espuma onto the plate. Serve immediately, while the beignet is warm and the espuma still holds its lift.