Trio of Dim Sum

STEP 1: MAKE THE ASPIC (THE DAY BEFORE)

Blanch the pork skin and trotter for 2 minutes, then rinse. Combine with the crab shells, ginger, scallion, Shaoxing wine and water in a stockpot. Simmer gently, partly covered, for 2 to 2.5 hours until the liquid is rich and faintly sticky to the lips - that lip-stick test is what tells you the stock is gelatinous enough to turn into soup. Strain through a fine sieve and discard the solids. Reduce the strained stock to about 2 cups (475 ml) to concentrate it. Bloom the powdered gelatin in a splash of cold water, then stir it into the hot stock as insurance for a clean, firm set. Pour into a shallow tray and chill until solidly set, at least 4 hours or overnight; it should be sliceable, like a firm jelly.

STEP 2: BRAISE THE PORK BELLY FOR THE ZONGZI (THE DAY BEFORE)

Brown the pork belly cubes in a dry pan, then add the light and dark soy, Shaoxing wine, sugar, star anise, ginger and enough water to barely cover. Braise gently, covered, for about 1 hour until tender and glossy. Cool in the liquid and refrigerate - the flavour deepens overnight.

STEP 3: SOAK (OVERNIGHT)

Cover the glutinous rice with cold water and soak overnight; drain well before use. Soak the dried bamboo leaves in warm water until pliable, then rinse and wipe.

STEP 4: MAKE THE SOUP-DUMPLING FILLING

Mix the ground pork with the grated ginger, scallion, soy, sugar, sesame oil and white pepper, stirring in one direction until tacky. Fold in the crab meat and roe. Dice the set aspic small and fold it through last, aiming for a near one-to-one ratio of aspic to pork by weight - this is the single biggest lever on how soupy the dumplings turn out. Chill the filling firm before shaping so the aspic stays in neat cubes.

STEP 5: MAKE THE SOUP-DUMPLING WRAPPERS

Stir the just-boiled water into the flour, then add cool water a little at a time until a firm, smooth dough forms. Knead 5 minutes, cover and rest 30 minutes. Roll into a rope, cut into roughly 14 g pieces, and roll each into a round about 3 inches (8 cm) across. Roll the edges thinner than the centre: a slightly thicker base carries the weight of the broth without blowing out, while thin walls keep the dumpling delicate.

STEP 6: SHAPE THE SOUP DUMPLINGS

Place a generous spoon of chilled filling in the centre of each wrapper. Pleat the edge up and around - aim for 18 or more pleats - gathering to a tight twist at the top. Pinch the final twist firmly closed; any gap is where the broth escapes. Set the finished dumplings on squares of parchment, spaced apart, and keep cold until cooking.

STEP 7: MAKE THE HAR GOW FILLING

Render the diced bacon gently, then cool. Blend half the shrimp to a smooth paste and chop the rest coarsely for texture. Combine both with the bacon, bamboo shoot, scallion, sugar, sesame oil, cornstarch, white pepper and a little salt. Chill until firm. This shrimp-and-bacon pairing is Cara's mother's recipe and stays exactly as served.

STEP 8: MAKE THE CRYSTAL SKIN AND SHAPE THE HAR GOW

Whisk the wheat and tapioca starches together. Pour in the boiling water all at once, stirring hard with a spatula until a shaggy dough forms, then add the oil and knead on a board until smooth and translucent. Keep it covered and warm - it cracks when cold. Pinch off small pieces, press or roll into thin rounds, add a spoon of filling, and pleat into the classic bonnet shape. Steam on parchment for about 6 minutes until the skin turns glassy.

STEP 9: WRAP THE ZONGZI

Overlap two bamboo leaves and fold into a cone. Spoon in drained sticky rice, press in a cube or two of braised pork belly with a little of its sauce, then top with more rice. Fold the leaves over into a tetrahedron and tie firmly with string. Repeat for the rest.

STEP 10: COOK THE ZONGZI

Steam the wrapped zongzi for about 1.5 hours (or simmer submerged) until the rice is fully tender and glossy with pork fat. These can be made ahead and re-steamed to order.

STEP 11: MAKE THE SALSA VERDE

Finely chop the parsley, scallion, capers and garlic together - by hand, for the right loose, spoonable texture. Stir in the rice vinegar and olive oil and season with salt. It should read bright, herbaceous and, above all, salty and oniony. Make it close to serving so it stays vivid green.

STEP 12: COOK THE SOUP DUMPLINGS AND HAR GOW TO ORDER

Line the steamer and bring the water to a hard boil before the dumplings go in - a fast, hot start sets the wrapper before the aspic fully melts and leaks. Cook the soup dumplings for about 8 minutes and the har gow for about 6. Serve the soup dumplings the moment they are ready, while the broth is hot and abundant. Warn diners to nip the top, sip, then eat.

STEP 13: PLATE THE TRIO

Set one of each dim sum on each plate: the soup dumpling with a tiny dish of black vinegar and ginger julienne, the crystal har gow beside it, and the zongzi (leaf peeled back) crowned with a spoon of salsa verde. Three little bites, one story.